The Camino
Arriving in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France not knowing what I was about to encounter, I went to the registration office and got myself a required credential, to be one of the so called “Peregrino” a.k.a. “Pilgrim”. Two interesting things occurred. Firstly, for statistical purposes they asked everyone their nationality. Seeing that Germans had a higher number of attendance then Mexicans, I choose Mexican. Secondly, after talking to some people and sitting there at registration desk, it was the first time I realized what the Camino meant for some people, which could be divided into the following (for statistical proposes during the registration you were asked to pick one of a couple of reasons, why you were doing the Camino, some of the following were included as well): obviously Religion, Cultural, Spiritual, Mental, and lastly Physical. Each has its own individual importance for each individual need.
My reason being there was just to bridge time, which I decided one week prior of my departure in August. Back then I was seeing it as a multi-day hike, which would allow me to get conveniently, easily, and directly to north-west Spain by foot. I remember sitting there and feeling a little uncomfortable. Could I even call myself a “Pilgrim/Peregrino”? Comparing my reason and those of others I couldn’t help but to feel a little embarrassed.
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France
Nonetheless I was welcomed. Until this point, I still didn’t inform myself of what I will encounter. Ignorant, some might say, for me it was a simple “let’s see what will happen”. I will not write a diary here, but rather give my little personal review and thoughts about the Camino of Santiago, specifically the Camino Frances. If you want to know how my whole journey of 764k went, which took me 37 days, you can check out my almost daily Instagram posts.
Anyway, here is my review, which I dissected into different points. While reading keep two things in mind. Firstly, I am not religious. I respect, tolerate, and have interest in the concepts of religion but do not practice them in any kind. Secondly and most importantly, this is my personal take on my experience and does probably not represent everyone’s opinion:
1. Different reasons why you should walk the Camino.
Like I mentioned in the beginning, most people walk the Camino for a couple of main reason:
a. Different individual’s needs and expectations.
i. Religion
Religion is probably the most obvious reason to walk the Camino of Santiago. Therefore, it is also obvious that the Camino Frances, which is the most famous and historical trail, holds a lot of religious value. There are plenty of interesting facets of Religion to discover during the Camino, be it in churches, villages, people and not to forget throughout the long walks. This is as far as I can judge as a non-religious-person and what I took from conversations.
(9-10/10)
ii. Cultural
Here I am referring to the Spanish culture and its experience. Walking through a country is probably the best way of travelling, if you want to gain the richest understanding of a country’s culture. It is very effective in getting emerged and having a paradoxical narrower and broader perspective. This allows you to see the bigger picture and pay extra attention to the little things. While walking the Camino, you definitely get those benefits, which I would argue would be more difficult to achieve otherwise. But with that being said, there is a counterpart to it which I will discuss in another point and is definitely something not to forget.
(7-8/10)
iii. Spiritual
Since spirituality can be so unique for every individual, it is hard to define what triggers this specific field and how you review it, but it is sure, that everyone encounters some sort of their own spirituality during the way. But I would make the case for that spirituality is influence by the next two points.
(x/10)
i. Mental
A lot of the Pilgrims walk the Camino for mental reasons. Giving the machine on ones shoulders a little break and let it wonder freely. To get a clear head and regain control over oneself. Some are also doing it to deal with grief and other mental issues. It is said to bring a couple of stones with you (representing the burdens) and every time you feel like you manage to deal with one, you leave one stone behind (but obviously don’t fill up your backpack with stones).
Those 764k are the perfect time to think about whatever you feel like. It’s a long journey and can give you enough time to deal with some burdens you carry with you.
(8/10)
ii. Physical
Then there are those people who firstly just see the Camino as way of exercise. In the end you will walk 764k, which, if you do it how it is recommended, you will finish in 32 days. This means walking everyday straight for about 25k (there are parts of just 15 and 30k’s). You can also choose to walk in your own pace and do the stages according to your needs and condition, but at the end of the day you will still walk those 764k and probably take more than 30 days. Generally speaking, it is a great physical challenge. You will definitely encounter your limits at some point and have this long way working against you.
The first couple of days everyone, and I legit mean everyone, encounter some sort of injury, blisters, or other physical hurdles, one must overcome. You and everyone become like a walking pharmacy, trading medicine and blister tapes like playing cards.
Encountering the physical pain comes along with the mental game. Your mind telling you to stop, but paradoxically you want to finish regardless of anything. This physical and mental struggle is something that can have a huge impact on each of those stated categories, since body and mind are working first separately. Through the pain, like in every other case in life, you grow and what you accredit it to, is your decision (a religion, a spirituality, a lost one or yourself). In most cases the simple goal becomes through the physical and mental journey eventually your own sort of spiritual tour, and the simple goal grows into something bigger and deeper.
Another thing I would like to mention here, which I will elaborate in a later point, is the health benefits of just walking, which is also one of the reason many people do this Camino. But there is a catch to it.
(7-9/10)
a. Meeting all kinds of people
There are plenty of people walking the Camino. You will meet a lot of people, all kinds of people from all around the world, which makes this Camino probably stand out more than others. Staying in Albergues and just the simple nature of walking along with people, you get into a conversation about life. And since everyone is enduring the same physical pain as you are, you connect to the people quite quickly. Additionally, everyone, at least in my case, was friendly and caring. Generally, the atmosphere and the energy is very supportive and positive.
(10/10)
2. Different reasons why you shouldn’t walk the Camino.
a. Nature walks or should I rather say street walks.
If you think you will walk only quietly through lush forest, open fields of agriculture and vineyards as far as the eye can see, you are kind of right but kind of wrong. There are some parts, where this is the case. But this is a small percentage if you compare it to the big picture. Mostly, you walk beside the road, and this road is not always a small one. More often than not it is the highway, right next to you. Hearing more cars than birds. The Camino used to be the most direct way which connects “major” cities by foot, but the highway was conveniently build next to. It gets frustrating and annoying at times, where you can barely hear you own music or even thoughts. Drowning the car noises becomes a challenge of its own.
At the end it is always about perspective. If you consider fields and vineyards as “nature” than, the overall percentage of “nature” increases a lot. But keep in mind, that the highway is almost always in hearing distance. If you are searching to disconnect into “nature” and want to have undisturbed walks, you are mostly mistaken. Since I didn’t know what to expect, I was still shocked about the constant presence of a street, to a point where I was about to skip some parts (but didn’t). Don’t get me wrong, there are some pretty parts, but not as many as one might think. All in all, I don’t think the Camino Frances is anything close to a “nature walk” or an “escape to nature”.
(3/10)
3. Things to keep in mind.
a. Overflow of Tourist
Since the Camino Frances is the most famous and thus the most popular one, the whole trail has become a big business scheme. Tons of bars with specialties for Pilgrims, gift shops specifically for Pilgrims, and other exclusive things to comfort the masses of Pilgrims. This gives the cultural aspect of the Camino a negative side. Wanting to fit everything for the touristic masses and disregarding its truly cultural side. But everyone needs to make a living, right? And additionally on the last 100k it is a joke how full it gets.
b. Budget/Lifestyle
If you are wondering how to plan your budget during the Camino, I observed that the range is limitless and is depended on your choice of lifestyle.
You could do it like me, buy the necessary groceries and cook/prepare your own food (you will need to bring your own stove, since a shared kitchen is not as common in Albergues). This would exclude going to bars for food and drinks regularly, right after you have arrived. With the costs of Albergues, which are mostly the cheapest option, you can spend max. 10-20 € daily.
But there are of course other lifestyles you can live by, and which will be promoted upon you. This is something I observed and with no means I am judging, nor telling you how to do it, just an observation.
If the Albergues are fine for you, then your daily budget stays and starts at 5-15€. Other sleeping options start at around 20€ upward. If you don’t cook your own food and prepare your own little snacks, you can spend a lot of money for food in bars, restaurants, and coffee shops, which you will find in almost every corner throughout the little villages. If you only include your food costs the budget goes up dramatically. Due to the constant movement, you will probably go out and eat three times a day, and this for more than 30 days. Here you can do your own math.
And then there is this little trick of today’s society where you can spend an abundance of money on the Camino. Alcohol. Bars at almost every corner intrigue you to “treat yourself well” and like it is common, “reward” you with a pint of beer or a glass of wine after an exhausting long walk. Besides, you have nothing to do anyway after you arrive. After recovering a little you will probably want to socialize, since there are constant people around you. And, as you hopefully noticed in our society, socializing prefers alcohol and most often than not it doesn’t stop with one round. Additionally, during some parts you walk through fields of vineyards, where of course you get the desire to try the vine you just have passed.
I have come to observe, that this is how and where you can spend the most amount of money during the Camino. And you could argue that this is not only the case for the Camino, but this is another topic. Since this is directly related to the lifestyle you choose, I have to include the health side. Again, this is something I observed, there is no judgement, and I don’t want to tell you how to live. But like mentioned in a previous point, some people choose to walk the Camino for health purposes, but if you walk 20+km and afterwards you sit down at the bar and consume blindly the specialized “Pilgrim” menu, which is mostly beers, vine and greasy food, you will have little to no health benefits out of the tough walks. This is just something to keep in mind.
c. Packing
Pack lightly. Probably obvious if you look at the distance to walk, but I didn’t account to that fact and quickly regrated it. It is said that you should only carry around 10 % of your body’s weight. It is both easier and more enjoyable to walk, but also much faster. If you think about carrying a tent with you, like I did, don’t. It is forbidden in Spain and not worth the risk. There are always some exceptions, and you can ask the Albergues to camp beside them, which also works, but it is excessive weight you carry around and it is not worth it.
4. Would I do it again?
I have encountered some people, which walked the Camino Frances not only once but multiple times. This will not be me, once is enough for the foreseeable future. Despite of having achieved personal growth, meeting amazing new people, and having overcome some challenges, I would not do it again. Just for the simple fact, of the obnoxious roads that drown your thoughts, which make the long walks sometimes not enjoyable. Like I said, there are some nice parts during the trail, but it accumulates to less than the bad parts. I am aware that today there is no way around having more often than not a highway or a street right next to you, but still there could be other solutions. And being honest with myself, I would have probably enjoyed everything more, if I didn’t carry so much weight with me.
With that being said, it was still something worth doing. I am definitely interested in doing other Caminos, just next time with less baggage (this I mean literally not mentally).
Something I wish to share at the end, which became clear during the Camino, and was I guess my kind of spiritual journey, is, sometimes the ordinary things, be it good or bad, that in the first sight might not seem like a big deal, might conceal bigger things, that enroll with time. Giving it attention might reveal paradoxical things, which blinding traditions guide you in.
Again, thanks for reading this far. Apologies for this longer one, but there is still so much to say. Spending so much time walking and observing, lets you notice a lot. You are again more than welcome to express your constructive thoughts on everything. I hope you could gather some value out of this. But nevertheless, thanks. Aspire to be your best version.
And since I am almost gone for 7 months, I would be very interested how your lives are going. If you have some time and are willing to write a little update about what is going in your life, in response to this, I am more than happy to hear/read from you. :)
Cheers,
Michael – Inspire what you can